In Seoul, the end of the work week is affectionately known as Bul-geum (불금), or “Burning Friday.” It’s a time for colleagues and friends to unwind, and more often than not, it involves sharing a fantastic meal. On one such Friday, I had the pleasure of being treated to lunch by a respected senior colleague (seonbaenim), who promised me a truly delicious bowl of Ppyeo-haejangguk. He led me to Golsu (골수), a gem tucked away in the bustling district of Euljiro, famous for its hearty pork bone soups.
A Modern Twist on a Classic Vibe
Euljiro is a fascinating neighborhood where old printing presses and industrial workshops stand next to trendy cafes and bars. Stepping into Golsu, I was immediately struck by its clean, modern, and stylish interior, which felt different from the more rustic, old-school restaurants that typically serve this dish.
The first thing that caught my eye was a beautiful piece of framed calligraphy hanging on the main wall, depicting an orchid (nan). It perfectly complemented the restaurant’s warm lighting and sophisticated color scheme. The frame proudly proclaimed Golsu as “Korea’s No. 1 Gamjatang & Ppyeo-gui (Grilled Pork Bones).” It’s a bold claim, but it set a high expectation. On another wall, a tastefully designed sign explained the restaurant’s commitment to using high-quality broth, signaling that they take their craft very seriously.
More Than Just a Meal: The Experience
Once we were seated, the table was set with banchan (complimentary side dishes) and a unique item: a small, personal mortar and pestle (son-jeolgu) for each of us, filled with toasted sesame seeds. This was a delightful, hands-on touch. My kind senior colleague took the initiative to grind the seeds for everyone at the table, filling the air with a wonderful, nutty aroma. (As the saying goes, anyone who buys you a meal is a good person! 😁)
The Star of the Show: The Ppyeo-haejangguk
It wasn’t long before the main event arrived. The Ppyeo-haejangguk (Pork Bone Hangover Soup) was a masterpiece. The broth was surprisingly clean and milky-white (ppoyan-gukmul), a sign of long and careful boiling, very different from the fiery red broths found elsewhere. The pork bones were colossal, generously laden with meat, promising a substantial and satisfying meal.
As someone who loves a spicy kick, I immediately added a spoonful of dadegi (a vibrant red chili paste) provided on the table, which instantly swirled into the broth, giving it a beautiful orange hue and a fiery depth.
The first bite confirmed what the restaurant’s decor had promised: this was a superior bowl of soup. The pork was incredibly tender, practically melting off the bone with the slightest nudge of my chopsticks. There was so much meat on the bones, making every bite a joy. It was clear that the ingredients were high-quality and cooked to perfection.
Honestly, this was the best Ppyeo-haejangguk I have ever tasted in my life. And at a price of just ₩10,000, it felt like incredible value for such a high-quality, filling meal in the middle of Seoul.
Final Verdict & Visitor’s Guide
Golsu isn’t just another restaurant; it’s an experience. It elevates a humble, traditional dish to a new level with its commitment to quality, its clean and welcoming atmosphere, and its thoughtful details. If you are a tourist in Seoul looking for an authentic, comforting, and truly delicious Korean meal beyond the usual barbecue and bibimbap, I cannot recommend Golsu highly enough.
- Cleanliness: Immaculate. Spotlessly clean from the tables to the utensils. 👍
- Service: Very friendly and welcoming. 👌
- Taste: Simply the best. A must-try for any food lover in Seoul. 👍
Reference
https://heavenly.tistory.com/entry/을지로-생선구이-전문점-한일식당
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“We should be better for our children.” 👍